As the sunset starts getting ever so later with each passing day, I’ve been on the hunt for a new look to enter this new season with. And if, like me, you are antsy for an energized change, what better (and bolder) way to achieve it than with a new hair color? Not just any hair color, but red! Shades of red (copper and strawberry blonde, in particular) have been a major favorite of celebs recently: BLACKPINK’s Jennie, Kendall Jenner, Zendaya, Tessa Thompson, Barbie Ferreira, Sydney Sweeney — the list goes on and on. But as someone who’ll have to use red hair dye on brown hair, I have questions before I can flaunt any fiery mane.
As a brunette who has never dyed their hair before, it’s safe to say I have a lot to figure out first. Do I bleach it? How do I keep it from fading? How often do I have to touch up? Can I dye it at home or do I have to go to a hair salon? Will red hair damage my natural color? And, most importantly, what shade of red would look best on me?
To assist all wannabe redheads, TZR reached out to celebrity hair stylists and colorists for tips and tricks on helping dark brunettes go red successfully. If you’re thinking about trying out this ultra trendy, versatile, and stunning hue, you’re going to want to read on.
How To Pick A Flattering Shade Of Red
Before committing to red, there is one universal standard you should follow for the most complimenting look: undertones, or the natural colors underneath the surface of your skin. There are three different types of undertones: cool, neutral, and warm. If you’re unsure of your skin’s undertone, take a look at the color of your veins. Cool undertones have hints of blue, green, and violet, whereas, warm tones appear red, orange, golden or yellow. Neutrals are typically a mixture of both. Master colorist and salon owner Ronnie Dietrich recommends that fair and warm undertones are best paired with more copper, bellini (meaning slightly peach) hues, while dark and cool undertones should opt for a red-brown auburn look.
In addition to undertones, Marcus Francis, hair stylist and Better Natured brand ambassador, also considers eye color and hair color, as well as your natural texture. “Some colors have more of an impact when it’s on one type of hair texture versus the other,” says Francis. “The light reflects differently on the hair follicle when it’s curly, wavy, or straight. More shadows are created when there is more texture.”
Color Can Never Lift Color
For Dietrich and many other stylists, the golden rule when dyeing your hair is to remember that color can never lift (read: lighten) color. “If you have dark brunette hair, you can’t just put a red color over it, expecting it to be red,” Dietrich tells TZR. The darker your starting color, the more lifting your hair will require. If the red you choose is more vibrant than your brunette hair, the hair will need to be lifted first.
Similarly, if you often experiment with color and you’re looking to go red, it won’t be as simple as a single process. Traditionally, hair is lifted through a chemical process, often via bleaching. It’s important to note that bleach can be damaging depending on the texture and condition of your hair. “Thick, wavy, and curly hair is more resistant to lightening,” Francis shares. The longer the bleach stays on your hair, the more it breaks down the cuticle layer. “A cuticle that has been compromised too much has a harder time keeping pigment molecules — therefore, the color has a hard time lasting through sun exposure and washing,” Francis continues.
How To Dye Your Hair Red At Home
With virgin hair (read: non-colored hair) or processed hair, the formulas you use on your scalp and ends should differ since their needs are different. “General rule for your scalp area is typically to have more depth and richness, while the ends are lighter and brighter,” says Jasen James, colorist at Maxine Salon. This is because the hair on the scalp will process faster and lighter than the hair on the ends. Translation: If you put the same color on your roots and ends, and process (read: apply) it for the same amount of time, the hair at your root area is going to be brighter.
According to Dieterich, “Depending how far from your natural color you want to go, you should purchase a shade or two lighter for the ends to create a more natural look.” You can achieve this by mixing half a natural shade with half of the red shade of your choice for the scalp, to prevent roots from appearing too red. And then on your ends, only apply the red.
Another important factor to dyeing your hair at home: the outgrowth, or hair growth post-dye. “The outgrowth is one type of hair because it’s new and young and the mid to ends have been out in the sun, brushed, styled, and possibly heat treated, so you may need a lighter, brighter tone for those and a deeper richer tone for your outgrowth,” Jasen says. “Typically the color on the box isn’t always the same end result for everybody, as everyone brings their own tone and underlying pigment to the table, which creates a different outcome each time.”
How To Maintain Red Hair & Keep It From Fading
Unfortunately, because the red hair color molecule is larger and it’s harder for it to enter the cortex (center) of the hair than other color molecules, red hair is more prone to fading than most other dyes. This is why it’s so important to keep the cuticle as sealed and healthy as possible.
Use Color-Safe Products
To keep hair from fading, James encourages clients to alternate between a color-depositing shampoo and a color-safe shampoo and conditioner. “Post shampoo, use a leave-in conditioner to tightly seal the cuticle and do the final rinse with cooler water,” James adds.
In the hotter months, sun exposure and salty ocean water can also cause fading. To enjoy some fun in the sun with your new vibrant color, consider applying conditioner to your hair prior to water exposure.
All the stylists suggest shampooing less frequently in order to maintain the red color longer, but if you find your hair becoming oily and have the urge to wash daily, Dieterich suggests investing in a scalp exfoliator that will lift some of the oil and keep your hair moisturized, without stripping your strands of color.
Protect Your Hair When Styling
For styling, Francis recommends using a heat protectant before using any hot tools. “[Heat protectants] protect the hair but also help keep the cuticle sealed and avoid [having] the heat pull out the pigment molecules.” Hydration is also key to making red hair color last. “Working in a good color conditioner is a great plan, too. It helps redeposit pigment back into the hair subtly, helping you to avoid brassy or dull hair days.”
Touch Up The Color
And remember, the further you stray from your natural hair color, the more often the hair will need a touch-up. Dieterich likes to refresh red hair every four to eight weeks. “You don’t want to wait too long [in between touch-ups] because then the color will process differently on your scalp versus your ends,” he says. “And if your roots grow too far from your scalp (think ½ inch to 1 ½ inches), it’s not going to process evenly.”
Red hair can be hard to maintain with the shift in tone via sun exposure, heat tools, and regular shampoo regime, but with a bit of strategy, you can achieve and maintain your ideal red hair as a dark brunette all season long and beyond.
We at TZR only include products that have been independently selected by our editors. We may receive a portion of sales if you purchase a product through a link in this article.
Vault Sulfate Free Shampoo for Color-Treated Hair
In order to combat the fading of your new fiery ‘do, opt for a color-safe shampoo like this one from Amika. A sulfate-free shampoo that‘s formulated with UV filters and antioxidants, it will protect against fading and keep your red color vibrant for longer.
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According to Dieterich, “Depending how far from your natural color you want to go, you should purchase a shade or two lighter for the ends to create a more natural look.” You can achieve this by mixing half a natural shade with half of the red shade of your choice for the scalp, to prevent roots from appearing too red.Can you go from brunette to red hair? ›
Bleach isn't always necessary.
That means going red is possible without bleach — but only if your strands are virgin. "You can do a single process using permanent dye on virgin brunette hair and it would pick up the color," Jaxcee says.
If you dyed your hair black and want to go red, you have to remove the color first. This is because dye only adds color; it does not lift color. The easiest way to do this is with bleach, but if you don't want to use that, then you have to use a color removing product first.Does red hair dye fade on brown hair? ›
If you did not lighten your hair first and had dark blonde, brown, or black hair before dying it, the red tones will gradually fade out and your underlying colour will be dark enough to prevent it from looking like pink. Over time, it is considerably more likely to fade to become brown or brown-orange.What's the best red hair dye to use on dark hair? ›
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Transitioning from dark to red hair takes a bit more work than with blonde hair, but it's totally doable. If you have virgin strands (meaning you've never put color or highlights on them before) then you could possibly add the red color in only one round, without bleaching your hair.Is red brown hair hard to maintain? ›
On the color maintenance scale, red hair ranks as one of the most difficult to take care of. After all, it's a tone that relies on vibrancy - meaning dullness is non-negotiable. By nature, red tends to fade fast (yet is one of the trickiest colors to remove… Go figure).Can brunettes go copper? ›
When going for traditional copper hair, it's best to lift any darker brunette tones before adding in the red dye.How do you go from dark brown to red? ›
The darker your starting color, the more lifting your hair will require. You can visit a professional colorist to get the result you want, or, if you're going to color at home, use an at-home hair color bleach like the L'Oréal Paris Colorista Bleach in All Over.What red dye doesn t require bleach? ›
Splat Naturals, Semi-Permanent Red Hair Dye : 100% Vegan, Cruelty-Free, No Bleach Required, Free of Ammonia, PPD, Parabens & Sulfates - 6 Oz.
“To keep it simple, if the red you are trying to achieve is lighter than your hair there is a possibility you will or may experience chemical damage or breakage. If you are going darker than your natural or current color, then the chances of damage are low to minimal.What developer to use for red hair? ›
Choose volume 20 developer to change your hair color by 1 to 2 shades. Volume 20 is the most popular developer level, as it contains 6% hydrogen peroxide, which is a moderate amount.What color cancels out red hair dye? ›
Green or cool ash dye will cancel out hair that's dyed red. If your dyed hair is on the warm orange side, use a completely blue hair dye. If your hair dye is a true red, then a green dye will be the most effective. Warm orange-red brassy tones can be darkened with brunette dye or lightened with blonde dye.Is Box dye bad for your hair? ›
Box dyes often say they contain moisturising ingredients or are 'ammonia-free'. However, even these usually contain PPDs, salts and other chemicals that will damage hair, especially with repeated use.Can you dye brown hair auburn? ›
Generally speaking, a brunette will have an easier time maintaining auburn hair than a blonde since it's closer to their natural color. Can I dye my hair auburn at home? Technically, yes, but this may be more or less difficult depending on your natural hair color and the shade of auburn you're going for.Does brunette have red tones? ›
Our experts' advice is to stay within two shades darker or lighter. Not many brunettes know that, no matter their colour, they may have red undertones hidden away that come alive as soon as their hair is lightened. Go too light, and the result can be an undesirable ginger shade.Should I box dye my hair red? ›
There are two ways to go about going red: see a professional, or DIY. If you go the boxed-hair-dye route, you'll only be able to achieve all-over color; if you go to a professional hair colorist (which would be our recommendation), they'll be able to customize the look to your liking.Can you dye dark hair without bleach? ›
The first option for coloring dark hair without bleach is to use temporary hair color that's made to work with a dark base color. These hair dyes are specifically formulated to be vibrant and true without having to lighten your dark strands prior. They're also super convenient for experimenting since they wash out.